The ROBO 3D R1+ is my first and currently my only printer I have. I started my printing adventure in 2017 when I got the ROBO 3D R1+ as a Christmas gift. Over the years I've updated the 3d printers firmware to keep my printer update and as a cheap way to add new feature and make it overall easier to use.
ROBO 3D R1+ at the time I'd say was an excellent printer to start out with. Out of box experience was great for beginners and what is now basic feature like auto bed made a world's difference when starting. A lot of my knowledge of 3d printing is from watching YouTube, reading 3d printing forums, and trial & error. I've used other printers like the Pursa MK3 and Ender 3. My more recent one I've started using it the Raise3D Pro2.
Over the years I made my own modifications, first one was adding a graphic display. I also print add-ons like tool holder, fan duct, filament spool holders and more. However, adding a display got me into learning how to change configurations in the Marlin firmware. I would build on this improving the IU on the graphic display adding features like Preheat, z-offset, and settings that could be adjust from the printer. With Marlin 2.1.4 I've incorporated input shaping which has helped print faster without losing significant quality.
Some of the challenges I've had with the ROBO 3D R1+ is mainly in the hardware. One I had issues with was the extruder, the way it was designed lets the thermistor easily pop-out with one slight tug. Some people I saw changed out the original extruder with the e3d … I was too cheap to do that and already had multiple extruders from repairs over the years. I fixed this recently by redrilling new holes on the other side of the heat block and adding a screw to hold the thermistor. The way the RAMPS 1.4 board design during time of high amp draw can lead to the terminal block connector powering the board to cooked to a crisp. After 7 years of having the printer I was surprised this didn't happen sooner. Tried changing out the terminal block, which only lasted a week. So, I eliminated the problem by soldering the power directly to the board. Other mirror thing on cable management which was easily fixed with 3d printed parts.
Because it's an open printer, wrapped prints can be an issue when printing ASA and ABS. Taking the idea from Slant3d, I've been able to reduce to issue by adding tabs on the corners. Doesn't completely remove the issue, but provide significant improvement to print quality.
